Catherine the Great: Celebrated French Climber Destivelle First Woman to Receive Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award

Ropeless and confident, Catherine Destivelle chalks up in dramatic stem position on the second half of her 867-foot ascent of El Matador (5.11d), on Devil’s Tower in Wyoming. The breathtaking feat, when she untied her rope mid-climb after it jammed in her belay protection device, served as the climax of the 1992 French film, Ballade à Devil’s Tower. Accomplishments like this, combined with her pioneering climbs in the Alps and Himalaya, garnered her the Piolet D’Or Lifetime Achievement Award.

By Bernadette McDonald

Photographs by Beth Wald

Catherine Destivelle has always been ahead of the pack. And now she has done it again, becoming the first woman to receive the Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award, for her accomplishments and contributions to the world of alpinism. Piolet d’Or is perhaps the most prized recognition internationally for achievements in climbing.

Born in Algeria on July 24, 1960, Catherine first discovered climbing at Fontainebleau at the age of 12 after her family’s move to Paris. She was soon tackling big alpine routes in the Alps, mentored by older climbers who recognized her skill and determination. 

Her rock-climbing abilities exploded at about the same time that sport climbing was rapidly gaining popularity, and she participated in competitions at the highest level. Her wins at the competitions Sportroccia in Italy in 1985 and at Jeff Lowe’s 1988 event in Snowbird, Utah; that she became the first woman to redpoint 8a (5.13b); and her compelling beauty and her gregarious personality; soon made her a rock-climbing star. One of the first rock-climbing films, the sumptuously produced E Pericoloso Sporgersi (1985), clearly shows her cat-like dexterity on the immaculate limestone of the Verdon Gorge

“At first I was embarrassed—I looked at the list of other Lifetime Piolet winners and I felt they had done so much more than me.”

Dazzling the climbing world with her exceptional skill and natural dexterity, Catherine placed first in the Snowbird Sport Climbing Competition in 1988, the first-ever event of its kind in the USA. She returned in 1989 (photographed here), winning the third place title.

Despite her success and fame as a rock climber, Catherine’s heart is in the mountains, and in 1990, she made an impressive solo ascent of the Bonatti Pillar on the Petit Dru. With this climb, her reputation as an alpinist was assured. She next opened a new route on the west face of the Petit Dru over an 11-day period and then, in an even more ambitious undertaking, completed a solo winter trilogy in the Swiss Alps: the north face of the Eiger in 1992, the Walker Spur on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in 1993, and the Bonatti route on the north face of the Matterhorn in 1994. Many of her alpine routes were documented on film, enhancing her reputation even more. Although this was the first time that a woman had climbed at such a high level in the Alps, Catherine wasn’t content with the ‘first female’ role, insisting that her climbs be measured against all alpinists, regardless of gender.

Catherine joined forces with Jeff Lowe to enter the high-altitude arena when they made the second free ascent of the Slovenian Route on Pakistan’s Trango Tower--a granite spire in the Karakoram Himalaya. And together with Érik Decamp, she climbed the southwest face of Shishapangma--one of the world’s 14 8000-meter peaks--as well as the Losar Icefall near Namche Bazaar in Nepal. 

Catherine leads a 14-pitch climb of the spectacular 700-meter frozen waterfall, “Losar” (VI W15), near Namche Bazaar in Nepal. Her then partner, Erik Decamp, belays. Noted Climbing magazine of her accomplishments: “Catherine Destivelle crushed the stereotypes that top level sport climbing and daring alpinism were reserved for men.”

She subsequently broadened her focus, married, had a child--Victor--and developed a highly successful career as a lecturer and writer. In 2011, Catherine embarked on her next adventure when she launched Les Éditions du Mont Blanc, a publishing company dedicated to mountaineering literature.

I have had the pleasure of knowing Catherine for many years, inviting her to speak at the Banff Mountain Film Festival several times and was, like the audiences who saw her speak, completely impressed with her engaging abilities as a presenter.  I also enjoyed her warm hospitality at her vacation home in the south of France, where she called every night to ensure that my husband and I had found the ‘right’ bakery, that we were climbing the routes that she was sure we would enjoy, that we didn’t miss out on a certain gourmet restaurant, and that we connected with her local climbing friends to show us around. I also had the enjoyable experience of climbing with her in Slovenia and Canada, and have always appreciated her slightly mischievous sense of humor.

Catherine is accomplished in so many ways, and has never lost her direct approach to life. She continues to discover new things, working hard at her projects, and maintaining world class standards in all she does. She truly is an inspiration to the next generation.

Her response to this coveted international recognition was reflective of her gracious and gregarious character: “At first I was embarrassed—I looked at the list of other Lifetime Piolet winners and I felt they had done so much more than me. But when it became public, I was surprised that everyone was so happy for me. Men and women both! So now I’m happy because everyone is happy!”

Learn more about Catherine Destivelle at http://catherinedestivelle.com/home/. You can follow Catherine on Instagram and check out the books she publishes at Les Éditions du Mont Blanc.

Bernadette McDonald is an award-winning author and was longtime Vice President of the Banff Centre for Mountain Culture. Connect with Bernadette on Facebook and via her website.  Her latest book, Winter 8000, goes on sale in North America in September. You can purchase the book chronicling winter ascents of the 8000-meter peaks here.

Photographer Beth Wald has traveled the world documenting stories of the human connection with land and nature. Wald has received multiple awards for her work, which has been featured in publications including National Geographic, Outside, and Smithsonian, as well as for Patagonia, The North Face, and Nikon. Follow Beth on Instagram and visit her website to learn more.

A presenter at the 2016 Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival, Catherine Destivelle connects with (from left) Ann Krcik, Bernadette McDonald and Rebecca Martin (right).